Givenchy suspension of its haute couture

Why not come back to that funny period that was the s," Gaultier said after the show, adding that he had been in awe of Cardin's futuristic, geometric designs when he was still a teenager. In it all, you could sense the familiar, shimmering just out of reach.

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Advertisement Power suiting, ruffles and lace-structured separates offered a nod to founder Hubert de Givenchy's signatures, but this time around tuxedo jackets were worn over delicate gowns or with fluid wide-legged satin trousers for a contemporary take on couture that bridged the gap between fashion as fantasy and actual, real-life clothes. Supplied When she succeeded Riccardo Tisci at Givenchy last year, many fashion insiders wondered if she was up to the task of helming a house that under Tisci had worshipped at the altar of gothic glamour. The collection was about as cool as couture gets in its elaborate insouciance and it had an energy that has been largely missing in a week where safe and stately has been the rule. Before the show she sent editors and stylists black notebooks as invitations, with the name of the collection, Mysteries of a Garden at Night, stamped in gold on their spines. Black-and-white stripped dresses — ingeniously cut to float down the catwalk from the front while revealing a cinched silhouette from behind — mingled with bold pink or yellow pant suits. The Grand Palais had been transformed into an idealised Parisian park, one where roses clamber up green trellises and park keepers don't yell at you for disturbing the gravel. Supplied That was then. Fringes on boots, trousers, dresses and sleeves twisted and turned to the inspired soundtrack as models strutted down the runway. More Givenchy flows. Four men's looks also made their way down the catwalk, and are also available for women to buy, which, judging by the gushing reaction to her suiting and trousers for women, practically guarantees the order book is already full to bursting. Surrealist artists including Salvador Dali or Rene Magritte often depicted birdcages or disjointed body parts in their art, a motif evoked in the show with giant noses and ears dangling over the runway and cage-like corsets worn on it. They were paired not with trousers but vests that had been turned into shorts, their straps dangling down like garter belts over high-heel boots. Jean Paul Gaultier never takes a backwards step. In many ways, that seemed more true to the gamine, pared-back aesthetic of Coco herself. However, it is worth noting that betting was also suspended last month too, after a sudden increase in bets for Alexander McQueen designer Sarah Burton, who designed the Duchess of Cambridge's wedding dress.

The missing pants, meanwhile, had been blown up and sliced open, migrated into strapless gowns belted beneath the breast and disgorging silk linings, worn over flesh-colored corsets, oft exploding out into trains and bustles, even wings, at the back.

The physical, as opposed to the virtual kind.

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Not Ms. Shin-length boots with sculpted, Perspex wedge-heels matched the clothes and were either beaded or tweed. Even the setting was Paree, The s Movie.

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Take a tailored hourglass jacket teamed with cropped, flared trousers, the luxurious cocktail coats and the sharp-shouldered tuxedos — or, for the more adventurous, a royal blue latex trench coat with horn buttons worn with a diamante mesh top and black trousers in a wool and silk blend.

Apart from some oversized, curved shoulders, this was a straightforwardly pretty, feminine reading of women, so intensely sweet that merely looking at it made you anxious for your next diabetes test.

Lisa Armstrong, The Telegraph Gaultier — psychedelia holds sway Advertisement Psychedelic swirls, Beatles-style bobs in vibrant colours and plenty of swishing fringes filled the runway at Jean Paul Gaultier Paris show in a celebration of the s designed in homage to avant-garde French couturier Pierre Cardin.

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The collection was about as cool as couture gets in its elaborate insouciance and it had an energy that has been largely missing in a week where safe and stately has been the rule.

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Paris Haute Couture: Givenchy spring/summer